5 Major Hair Do’s That Used to be Total Hair Don’ts
October 17, 2012

“ Hair trends are most obvious when looking back over past decades. For example, celebrity hair stylist Vasken Demirjian –  whose client list includes the Kennedy family and whose salon has been named one of the country’s top three by Salon Today Magazine — says that the ’60s are “clearly identified as the decade of change, the coming out of structured, heavily sprayed hair of the 50s.” The ’80s were big, the ’90s were grungy and the ’70s were free flowing and hippified. While many hair trends of these decades past (thankfully) never see the light of day again, some make a comeback later down on the road. I spoke to Demirjian and NYC hair stylistColin Lively — 10-year artistic director for Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salons — about former hair don’ts that are making a mean comeback in today’s salons. Micro Bangs “Women in the past would have screamed bloody murder if their bangs had been cut all the way up to the hairline,” says Lively. Now, micro bangs are back with a vengeance. If you decide to go with them, note that you’ll have to do consistent upkeep to keep them looking good. Messy Hair
Anton Oparin / Shutterstock.com The ’10s are moving away from the pin straight hair that was fashionable in the late ’90s and early ’00s. “It is now sometimes chic to have a hairstyle that looks a little bit less than perfect and more undone,” explains Demirjian. “This look takes its cue from the runways, where the tousled look reigns.” Roots Think back to beauty icons such as platinum blonde Marilyn Monroe and redheaded Rita Hayworth. It would have been a hair sin for either of them to let their dark brown roots peek through. Today, though, the look of regrowth is actually a hair do, especially for longer coiffures. “I often have clients come in requesting to have their color start further down their strands,” says Demirjian. This makes maintenance easier, too. Razor Cuts “The blunt, conspicuous layers a la Joe the Barber precision have given way to haircuts that are more unplanned,” says Lively. Razor cuts giver hair a lighter, softer quality versus the super heavy and blunt looks that used to be fashionable. “I find myself doing many haircuts totally with razors and no scissoring,” he says. Braids Many years ago, braids were restricted to heads belonging to girls 13 and under. Today, though, braids are one of the hottest (and easiest) hair trends that women of all ages are partaking in. “This relates to our current times,” explains Demirjian. “Possibilities are getting exhausted for styles, so we go back and reinvent, revisit previous ideas, put a spin to it and call it trendy. Who knew braids would be a thing of trends?” From french to fishtail to basic braids, they’re all in.

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The importance of the care of the hair is every bit as important as the cut or the color. “All products are the same” is something I hear regularly. “Why should I use a more costly product when Fill-in-the-Blank brand does the same things the other products do.

Certain aspects of “all products are created equally,” do hold true. Shampoos need to lather. (Some would argue that), but from my point of view, I prefer a shampoo that lathers.  Shampoos that lather need to contain surfactants. The surfactants create the lather, which is important in breaking up residue on the hair and scalp. Some of these surfactants have been given bad raps, but in reality they are not damaging to hair. If they were, no one on the planet earth would have strong, shiny, beautiful hair.

Many more ingredients go into the finished product; therein lies the difference between luxury brands and economy brands. When it comes to haircare, what you do not pay for does, over time, show up in the hair.

To keep hair strong, shiny, and beautiful, cheap ingredients do not make for luxurious hair. Hair care is not where we should cut back, after all, the most costly products, are in essence, not costly. When we consider that a normal size shampoo gives us many, many uses, it is well worth the extra dollars.

Most luxury product lines have price points under $30, which is certainly more than budget brands, but we only have one head of hair, and if not properly cared for, can be a head of hair that can be remedied by only cutting it off and growing it again.

Hair extensions are a great option for adding low-commitment, trendy styles to clients. Want your extension work to shine brighter than a Fourth of July firework? Follow these tips from Hair Locs Specialist Yvonne:

Talk it Through—Extension consultations are critical and they must be thorough. This is often an emotional decision and a significant investment. Be sure your client

understands the service and care completely, and be sure you understand exactly what she wants and expects.

Color First—Hair Locs are custom matched extensions before you apply them to the head. No damage to you own hair!

Pick Your Pattern—Extensions are always placed in a pattern, i.e. a triangular pattern. Determine the pattern you will follow before you begin applying the extensions.

1. Mister Clean
Don't wash your hair so much. One of the biggest mistakes people make is drying out their scalps with too much harsh shampoo. You know how you scratch your scalp and get little white flakes? That's not dandruff. Dandruff causes big, wet flakes that fall down in chunks. Those drifts of white are caused by dry skin on your scalp, but people think they have dandruff so they use harsh, medicated shampoos that only make the problem worse. And the worse the problem gets, the more we wash, not realizing we're stuck in a negative feedback loop. Try switching to a milder shampoo, like a professional Redken brand, and washing no more than every second day. You'll be amazed at the difference.

2. Clear your head
Use a clarifying shampoo once a week. You know all that stuff you put in your hair every day to make it behave? Even if you wash your hair regularly, it leaves behind residue that can make hair dull and heavy. Clarifying shampoos are specially formulated to cut through that residue and restore your hair's natural shine. Don't use them too often, though. More than once a week and you're liable to end up with a flaky, dry scalp and flyaway hair.

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3. Some like it hot
Baby your hair with a heat-activated deep-conditioning treatment. Heat-activated conditioners are great to use after you wash with a clarifying shampoo. Heat expands your hair's cuticles, which allows moisture to penetrate deep into the hair shaft. Moisture adds elasticity and bounce, which prevents breakage and makes hair shinier and more manageable. Sounds great, right? It is. But be sure to use a treatment that's formulated for your type of hair. It's easy to turn healthy shine into oily sheen by using a heavier conditioner than your hair can handle.

4. End game
Speaking of conditioner, you know conditioner belongs on your hair and not on your scalp, right? Conditioner doesn't do much for your scalp, except clog pores and leave behind sticky residue that will later flake out all over your clothes. The hair that's closest to your scalp is still relatively young and healthy, so it doesn't need much conditioner, anyway. It's the older (read: longer) hair that's sustained the most damage from both sun and styling, and that's where you want to put your product. Stylists recommend putting a quarter-sized dollop of conditioner into your hands, then working it into wet hair from the ends up.

5. Chill out
Although you may hate the thought of cold water running through your hair on a cold winter's day, finishing a shampoo with a cold water rinse is one of the quickest, easiest ways to add shine. Remember how we said heat expands your hair's cuticles? That's great when you want to get moisture into your hair shaft, but the thing that makes hair shiny is having smooth, closed cuticles. Rinsing with cold water closes your hair's cuticles, taking you from lackluster to luxurious. Rinsing with cold water is great for preserving color, especially for redheads.